Posted: Friday Oct 24th, 2014 07:09 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Hi - I have a problem with trouble condition on zone 5.
Even when I link the zone out and move the jumper towards the terminals so it knows there are no EOL, it still goes into a trouble condition.
Any ideas why? Could the zone be broken? That's a pain as I need it!
Thanks
CG
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Posted: Friday Oct 24th, 2014 07:19 pm |
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slychiu
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There may be an external voltage on the zone terminals or wires
Remove the wires from the zone and see if the trouble remains
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Posted: Thursday Nov 6th, 2014 06:53 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Thanks.
Yes, I've tried that and I still get a trouble condition.
Here's what I'm doing.
1. Moving jumper close to terminals so it knows there's no EOL resistors.
2. Putting a piece of continuous wire between the zone terminals so the zone is closed.
3. Set the zone as type doorwindow and it goes into trouble alarm
4. I set to zone type switchNO and switchNC to see if that makes any difference and still there is a trouble alarm whatever I do
I cannot see any other wires touching the terminals. Of course, zone 6 is connected to the shared common terminal as zone 5. There's never been a problem with the zone 6 which is a normally closed heat detector.
I have removed zone 6 and the problem still occurs.
Do you have any other ideas what it could be?
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Posted: Thursday Nov 6th, 2014 10:33 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Hi.
Update on this issue
If I set the zone as door window or switch NC, and the zone is left open, ie no link wire, and reset comfort , there is no trouble alarm. As soon as I close the circuit by putting a wire across the zone terminals, there is a trouble alarm.
Any ideas what this could be?
Thanks as always
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 05:57 am |
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slychiu
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Do you have a multimeter to take some voltage measurements?
- with the shunts in NO EOL position ie closer to the terminal blocks (as you have now), open the zone (remove the shorting wire) and measure the voltage from Zone to common,
- with the shunt in Double end of line position ie away from terminal block, open the zone (remove the shorting wire) and measure the voltage from Zone to common
- Remove the shunt completely, open the zone (remove the shorting wire) and measure the voltage from Zone to common
This will tel us if there is a fault
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 01:24 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Hi.
The readings were as follows;
1. 0.596 volts - shunt in no Eol position
2. 1.22 volts - shunt in eol position
3. 1.22 volts - shunt totally removed
Any ideas?
Thanks
CG
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 05:31 pm |
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slychiu
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The voltages are too low. It appears like the input is damaged.
Do you have a spare zone that you can use?
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 06:54 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Unfortunately not, I need all 64 now.
Good to know I'm not doing it wrong though
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 07:02 pm |
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slychiu
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You can have a maximum of 5 slaves so total of 96 zones now
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Posted: Friday Nov 7th, 2014 07:05 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Thanks
But it buy a Slave just for one zone is a bit excessive!
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Posted: Saturday Nov 8th, 2014 06:12 am |
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slychiu
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What is the serial number of the CM9000? If it is under warranty it can be replaced. Otherwise you can send it for repair but your system will be not operational
You may also be able to combine 2 zones in series eg 2 windows in the same room
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Posted: Saturday Nov 8th, 2014 12:42 pm |
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ComfortGeek
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Thanks.
It was bought in 2010 so I guess it's out of warrantee.
I'll try combining two fire zones as having the system non operational would be a nightmare.
Thanks
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